Hakata brocade Photo:Fukuoka City

Hakata brocade Hakata ori

Dynamic techniques woven by 770 years of tradition
Satisfying squeak of silk textile and formfitting comfort provided by unique tightness

Description

What is Hakata brocade ?

Hakata Ori refers to woven cloth produced in and around Hakata of Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture. Hakata weaving techniques, which were originated in China, have shaped its uniqueness and highly regarded for its high quality textile throughout the ages.
It is characterized by tightly woven texture that is attained by using a number of thin warps strongly drawn by thick wefts to raise warps to the surface as a pattern. With inimitable tightness, thickness and excellent durability, Hakata Ori textile was sought after as Japanese kimono sashes called obi, especially designed for men; sashes for samurai in ancient times and loincloths for sumo wrestlers in the recent years. A unique silk rustling sound called kinunari is produced when a kimono sash is tightened, which defines Hakata Ori.
Raw silk, silk threads, purl and Japanese silk twine are used to produce an elaborately woven fabric, along with gold and silver foils and lacquered leaf. Hakata Ori boasts different types of patterned fabrics characterized by weaving techniques: Kenjo/ Kawari Kenjo, Hira Hakata, Kando, So-uke, Mojiri Ori, Kasane Ori, and Enuki Hakata. The traditional, honed techniques have been passed down for generations.

History

Hakata brocade - History

History of Hakata Ori harks back to 1241 during the Kamakura Period, when a Hakata merchant named Yazaemon MITSUDA returned from Sung Dynasty, China with the Kara Ori (Canton Ori) weaving techniques. In the 16th century, constant improvements by his descendant Hikosaburo MITSUDA led the techniques to the next level. Hikosaburo learned the new weaving techniques in Ming and combined them with the inherited techniques to complete techniques to give thickness to a woven fabric with a raised stripe design and willow branch pattern depicting a tokko (single-prong) and flower tray used in Buddhist rituals. The textile named Hakataori is the origin of the current Hakata obi.
In 1600, when Hakata was under the reign of the Kuroda clan, exquisite Hakata textile was presented to the Imperial Court as a tribute, bringing out five-color kenjo that represents the universe. Limited by the weaver stock system during the Edo Period, weavers in Hakata were liberalized in the Meiji Period, which resulted in the establishment of Hakata Ori Corporation, forerunner of Hakata Ori Industrial Association, to maintain the quality. Hakata Ori underwent a gradual change in the late Meiji Period while producing sashes for women.

General Production Process

Hakata brocade - General Production Process Photo:Fukuoka City

Leading Ateliers

HAKATA JAPAN

HAKATA JAPAN

"Advanced classicism" is the concept of our brand. We protect the traditional sense of beauty of Hakata textiles while creating progressive and stylish designs with high skills and excellent techniques. We always strive to provide our customers with modern and original Hakata textiles.

More information

Where to Buy & More Information

Takumi Art & Craft Gallery

Takumi Art & Craft Gallery

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